How to: Engine Wire Tuck

So I've been slacking for a while now, did this back in September and decided to finally post up some of the pics. A lot of other 'luders have done this but I've yet to see a write-up on it. Hopefully this will contain enough to be the final wire-tuck thread.

What parts you will need / body panels required to be removed based on what you are tucking:

Battery Relocation:
Materials -
10' of 2 gauge wire for power (if fuse box is relocated) 11' if fuse box is still in bay
4' of 2 OR 4 gauge wire for grounds
5' of 2 OR 4 gauge for starter and alternator extensions (if fuse box is relocated) 2' if your shock tower is tucked and fuse box is in bay
(x) amount of lug ring connectors/ butt splices, depends on how you hook up to your battery and if you use a distribution block
Shrink wrap / or rubber electrical tape
Regular electrical tape

What needs to be removed -
Passenger door sill
Glove box
Back seat
Passenger side back seat panels
Trunk mat

Driver side shock tower:
Materials -
6' of vacuum/washer fluid hose - size per your existing EGR solenoid tube
Zip ties

What panels need to be removed -
If removing fluid reservoir and relocating relays, remove front bumper and driver-side fender.

Passenger side shock tower:
Materials -
Zip ties

What panels need to be removed -
-none-

Fuse box: (if NOT done with battery relocation)
Materials -
Electrical tape Ring lugs / splices for power and alternator wires 5' 2 gauge wire for battery feed 3' 2 OR 4 gauge wire for alternator

What panels need to be removed -
Glove box

Everything is pretty self-explanatory, I've got some step-by-step pictures and will try to keep everything in some sort of order.

What you will start with (intake depending):


Finished:





Passenger shock tower:





Driver shock tower:
(Depending on how far you want to go with this - you will have to remove the bumper and driver-side fender)

















Distributor:





Horns:



Firewall:





Fuse Box:









Battery: